Sunday, March 9, 2008

PARIS

Paris... what is it even... the city of love? Lights? Some may say it’s tragic that I have absolutely no idea. But then again, I now know Paris by something more than stereotypes. I have now experienced Paris... as a real, living person.

Ahh!

So last weekend, Gloria, Danny, and I embarked on Paris. Riding the TGV on the way there was exciting in itself, since we sat by two sets of grandkids with their grandmothers. We talked with the kids about their families, their hopes, their dreams... one wanted to be a plumber, the other one liked to read science fiction, and the little girl was learning the alphabet. At the end, one of the little boys took down my phone number in his fake palm pilot. So I have that going for me. Their grandma also gave me a whole bunch of pastries, which was sweeeeeeet!

Danny, Gloria, and I had decided we wanted to be adventurous in Paris. Since it was a somewhat spontaneous trip, we decided not to book a hostel for Friday night. We decided that we’d depend on the spontaneous generosity of others (we all had a few far-fetched connections in Paris) or on our own spontaneous ingenuity and stamina. In the end, we had to settle for the lesser... and we simply stayed up all night, moving from bars to clubs to fast food restaurants to the Eiffel Tower until the morning, when we could check into our hostel for Saturday. It was cool to go the Eiffel Tower at like 6 in the morning, because absolutely no one else was there. But throughout the course of the night, we managed to meet up with some random French men who bought us wine and showed us around the city, and I know what that sounds like, but it wasn’t like that. They were just really nice people. And they spoke French to us. Which, in my opinion, is maybe a compliment, or more typically, just the mark of a nice person in a city where most people speak English and pretend like they can’t understand our anglo-phone accented French.

One of my favorite stops of the night was at Quick Burger on the Champs-
Elysees. We stopped by when they opened, at 4am, and it was a zoo. I like to think of it as the Reckers of the Champs-Elysees. It was just a whole bunch of exhausted, drunk 20-somethings shoving burgers in their faces when the clubs closed. BUT IT WAS IN PARIS ON THE MOST FAMOUS STREET IN THE WORLD! I just kept wondering to myself... who ARE these people?! Like... who is that guy, wearing cowboy chaps over his white pants? Who is he? Why is he here? Then I went to the bathroom and there was randomly a man in there, just like washing his hands? I was like whaaaaat is going on in this place? Another typical convo:

Moroccan man: American girl! You’re an American girl! Where you from?
Me: ... America.
Moroccan man: You study at school?
Me: I go to the University of Notre Dame. It’s kind of near Chicago.
Moroccan man: Ohhh yesss! I know your school! Great school! Wonderful school, well-known!
Me: Really?
Moroccan Man: NO! Hahahhahahaha! (throws up all over his tray)

So those of you familiar with late night college restaurants may see some similarities.

The next day we visited Montmartre and Sacre Coeur, and then went to this park in the middle of Paris’ version of Chinatown. It was called Belleville and it was fantastic... we had a view of all of Paris, but then there were lots of people just playing their guitars and playing soccer and lots of families with little children there, and Danny and I just ate our bread and cheese and felt French. That night we met up with some kids visiting from London and did our best to show them around (even though, who was I kidding, this was my first time in Paris too...). We ended up in Marais, the gay Jewish neighborhood, dancing until the wee hours, again.

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Throughout our time in France, Gloria and I have started a makeshift list of how French men will hit on you. Many of these theories were reinforced over the weekend.

1. A French man will compliment your shoes.
This first happened to me outside a movie theater. I had rode my bike, but when I arrived outside the theater, I wanted to change back into my cool silver pumps. As I was doing this, some man, while talking on his phone, starts pointing at my shoes, and saying, “Bon. Bon. Oui.” and smiling at me. He then continued his phone call.

2. A French man will compliment the man you’re walking next to.
Gloria discovered this gem as she was meandering through a flea market with Goodrich. Some man came up and started nudging Matt while stealthily motioning toward Gloria, saying, “Ouiii, bonne, bonne!” It didn’t take long for everyone to figure out he was complimenting Matt on snagging a hot chick like Gloria. Without ever saying anything to Gloria herself.

3. A French man will blatantly lie and say you have a great accent.
I am an atrocious speaker. I know this from the many blank stares I get when I talk to French people in normal situations. It’s okay. I have an occasional speech impediment in English, and I’m not ashamed to say I have a perpetual one in French. But sometimes, usually late at night, at a bar, men will suddenly call my accent perfect, and say they can’t even tell I’m from America! This makes me feel wonderful! Until I think about it for a second and realize they are lying. Blatantly.

In one amazing moment in the Paris club, all three of the theories collided in one smitten man. I was dancing with my friend Roakley, and some dude shows up and starts pointing at my shoes. He then smiles, and points at my shoes, and nods vigorously. He likes my shoes. CHECK. Then, in one fluid movement, he motions to Roakley, and starts raising his eyebrows, giving the thumbs up, and motioning toward me. What a great catch you have there Roakley! Oh, ma’am, you have great shoes! Yeah buddy. I KNOW WHAT YOU’RE GETTING AT. And the kicker was when he tried to talk to me later and told me he couldn’t hear my accent at all. I protested, saying he couldn’t hear anything I was saying at all, because we were in a club, with loud thumping music. I had to admire that French man. He pulled out all of our documented stops.

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I ended my trip to Paris by visiting the Louvre and the Musee d’Orsee on Sunday... I started off in the Louvre, and wandered through the Roman emperors and Greek gods, let myself get all nostalgic and PLS-y by taking pictures of Emperor Claudius, things like that. Somewhere along the way, I came across an impressionist painting though, and right then and there, I decided I had to leave, and immediately go to the Musee d’Orsee. So I did. I didn’t even see the Mona Lisa, but I’m okay with that. All of the Renoirs and Degas in the Musee d’Orsee were worth it.

So now I’m back in Angers, having a lazy Sunday... I’ve been a little sick this week, and no matter how much I sleep, I just seem to keep coughing and hacking up my lungs. Hopefully it passes soon, maybe when it starts getting warmer again. I hope everyone had fabulous spring breaks or just normal weeks, if you weren’t on spring break.

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